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A day in the life of the Sea of Cortez
By Andrea Tomba

I often get asked a simple questions by new visitants to La Paz, or the Sea of Cortez: “What am I going to see? “ and a rather gloomy look fall across mostpeoples’ faces when I retort “Not quite sure!” Well, I guess that when you meet somebody who has been diving the area on a nearly daily basis for the past five years and who runs one of the most successful dive clubs in Baja, you expect a little more specific answer. The truth however is that, although the Sea of Cortezis often referred to as the Aquarium of the World ever since the late Capt. Jean Jacques Cousteau made the comparison, its most notable characteristic is its unpredictability!

Many are drawn to La Paz wanting to share the amazing experience of diving or snorkelling with the amazing creatures that fill the Sea of Cortez, however, unfortunately they try to extend the MTV mentality to matters of nature and wildlife. However rich the Sea of Cortez is, it will never compare to the Discovery Channel, and meeting somebody’s request to dive with the hammerheads in the morning, swim with the whale shark over lunch and snorkel with the mantas in the afternoon is not as easy as changing channels. The sea’s main attraction is that we are never quite certain of what we are going to find, and are exhilarated by the wild surprises that this vastness can offer us.

Having said all of the above, I feel compelled to share with you one of these days, a day where you are certain that someone up there is just smiling down on us, hinting at Lucas and Spielberg that the true effects, the true wonders are only natures doing.

On the morning of the 18th October, a group of divers set out to La Reina at the North of the Island of Cerralvo as their destination. The purpose was to join a group of 6 Giant Pacific Mantas, which reach up to approximately 18-foot wingspan, and have been resident at this site since late August. On the journey out, a big blow is spotted from quite a distance. As the boat approaches effortlessly, they clearly remain in awe of the immensity of the Fin Whale that breaks the surface several times before sounding to the depths once again. Noone really wanted to spend time investigating how come this whale was in these waters almost four months after their visiting season, but preferred to simply quietly engrave the picture in their memory.

Once anchored at La Reina, the mantas quickly approached the boat towel come their now familiar friends. The passengers could clearly see them circling just a few feet under the boat, almost teasing them to hurry and jump in.

And believe me that very little encouragement was needed, as within minutes they had joined them in their amazing world, admiring them as they effortlessly glided through the clear blue waters, and like dark angels exuded a sense of peace and fulfilment to all those with whom they came into contact.

The second dive was to be held on La Reinita, a smaller reef on Cerralvo's West Side. The magnitude of schooling fish, the Zebra Morays, the turtle all took second place, as the main attractions were the three giant Sea Horses. After all the film and cameras had been safely stored away, the group started their return journey, more than content of the day's events.

However the Sea would just not let them be... It insisted to show them that it always had an Ace up its sleeve...

The journey back to the Bay of La Paz was not smooth. Indeed, it was interrupted three times in total. Once to mingle in with a pod of Pilot Whales, once to watch the Dolphins put on their spectacle. The third stop actually required all the passengers the hassle of putting on their snorkel equipment again, so that they could try to focus on the entirety of the 30 foot whale shark that was playing with his new friends at the surface.

Like a huge poker game, the Sea can guarantee us nothing except that we have to participate in the game to give it the opportunity to show us its wonders, and sometimes we can play with a loaded dice. And diving in the Sea of Cortez is about as loaded as you can get.

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